Fiasko & suksess

2-10-09

Har lagt ut en liten video fra turen jeg hadde til sveits i våres med Steffen, Bror og mye annet godt folk.

Fiasko & Suksess

Tilbake på land

To sure og en sint 8A

1-10-09

Etter to uker på jobb i sjøen er jeg omsider på land igjen. Leeenge siden jeg har skrevet noe her på bloggen rett å slet fordi jeg ikke har giddet å gjøre det.

Har heller brukt litt tid på å utvikle en internett fører for buldringen i Bergen. Har som mål å kunne lage en relativt fullstendig oversikt over de ulike spotsene med filmer og bilder som forhåpenligvis kan være til inspirasjon for andre slik at utviklingen kan fortsette.

Har ikke blitt det store buldreåret for min del. Tok 3mnd før brusken som fester det øverste ribbeinet ble brukendes etter avrivingen. Kunne de første måndene bare bedrive rett på klatring men heldigvis er det jo det jeg liker best. Høyde punkter så langt i år var en dag før påske der jeg raskt ekspederte to sure og en sint 8A og Sploit 7C+ i Matre. Litt irritert over at jeg ikke prøvde min rett på beta for to sure i flashe forsøket da jeg er ganske sikker på at det ville gått veien.

Ellers fikk jeg i sommer rydda unna et gammelt prosjekt: Transplant 8A+ på hytten og pussa frem et nytt prosjekt som sikkert vil ligge rundt 8B.

Transplant 8A+

Hadde og en kjempe tur til Vingsand der jeg fikk gått mang en klassiker samt pussa frem og gått noen nye kommende klassikere.

Blant annet Hole in the Sky7C+, som nok kan sies  er et noe utypisk vingsand bulder med sine to flytt.  Buldringen på vingsand kan abbsolutt måle seg med det beste i utlandet med bombefast gneis, killer linjer og seting ut av en anen verden! Blir nok flere turer opp til fosen ja.

Hole in the sky 7C+

Nå etter sommeren har jeg hengt litt på torsvik, å at jeg ikke har gått panthalassa enda er for meg en stor gåte. Flyttene som i utgangspunktet var helt marginale har jeg nå full kontroll på uten at det hjelper noe på sluttresultatet. Føler igrunnen at jeg ikke har hatt noen gode forsøk enda på denne bortsett fra det ene av totalt 1 forsøk jeg hadde i fjor. men vis det mot formodning skulle slutte å regne en gang i bergen så rykkes nok det til.

Satser ellers på komme meg fort som faen ned til Andreas i Sveits da det her Bergens været begynner å gå meg på nervene. Eneste som stopper meg nå er at jeg må kjøpe meg en bil først.

Still recovering

16-1-09

I’ve visited the doctor now and the problem is not a broken rib but the connection between the collarbone and breastbone. He couldn’t say specific what the problem was exactly without further examinations, but the only way to heal the injury was resting for all the different possibilities. I also got inflammation in some of the muscles connected to the shoulder.

So now I am resting and finally starts to feel a bit better. I’m now able to move my arm free without any extra load without feeling pain.

The days are going quiet slowly now since I’m not able to work and the training possibility is quiet limited.

I’ve been doing some endurance training, stretching and worked through a hardcore one arm strength training and hangboarding regime. So if this continues I probably will start looking like the crab on the top of this page!

Goals 2009

6-1-09

A new year and time to set the goals so you have something to stay motivated for when you train.

First of all I will say that I am quiet satisfied with the progression I had in the first part of 2008, felt that I raised my level some steps, with the highlights of doing several 8a+ fast and the FA of the standing start of franske følelser in Laukelandsfossen witch is my hardest send so far.

The second part of the year was quiet frustrating with being sick and injured all the time, which led to a lack of motivation.

So the plan is to forget about this problems and work forward on the basis I made in the first part of the year.

GOALS 2009

8B+

There are two boulders I really want to do this year:

Franske følelser SD.

This is a boulder I tried for two years now. It consists of crimpy two fingers move leading up to a strange and really hard dynamic move that I used 10 days to accomplish. In 2008 I was able to do the stand start and 2009 should be the year for the sit!

This boulder is featured at the end of laufalls 07 at the movie site.

Confession at Cresciano

Tried it recently and it felt good:)

8B

My main goal for the year is to stabilize on an 8b level, boulders I have in mind is Panthalassa, Veccia leone, Genneral disarray, Riverbed, Steppenwolf and the great shark hunt (I’ve already tried most of these problems briefly and was able to do the moves quiet fast).

There are also two projects in matre close to Bergen that might could be in this range that I want to accomplish.

8A Flash

I am not sure where the climbing trip leads this year, but there will defiantly be some action going on in Switzerland. I also want to explore more of the climbing in Norway and especially the areas close to Trondheim.

Probably have to train hard to accomplish this, but the reason to have goals is to have something to attempt.

Broken Rib bone

6-1-09

After two weeks at Stord with nearly no work to do, just sitting and waiting and of course training a lot I went to Røldal to meet my family and do some skiing. Røldal is well known for its good snow conditions and the off-piste skiing. This time the conditions was quiet hard and I used only an hour to fall badly. When the stars in my head had flown away I felt that my shoulders was really painful and the movement was quite limited. Through the night it went worse but with some help of Ibux and the Satan cream I was able to ski for two more days without using my arm.

Its gone 4 days now and I quiet sure that it is a broken rib that is the problem. Nothing to do about that but quiet frustrating to not be able to train.

A nice start of the year!

Swiss report

4/12-08

12/12

The weather was good to day and we went to brush some boulders in chironico. We drove by to check out the senza denti boulders and was quiet surprised that all the boulders here was dry. Its a 20 m high block with 9 problems up to 7c and the boulder don’t top out. Did the problems quiet fast and went up to phaese and brushed some boulders.

10 and 11 December

Woke up in the morning to a snowstorm. The plan was to bring Magne to malpensa in time, but it was a total chaos on the highway so he just missed the plane. It was supposed to snow for some days, so I looked at the weather forecast and found a sun in Venice so we hit the road again in the hunt for sun. We was prepared, Steffen even had brought shorts for a swim in the sea. It rained like hell all the drive down and the rest of team agreed to fire me as the “weather man”. First the job as “egg timer” and now this, I don’t think they have much trust in me:-(

The rain stopped as we drove in to the old city and parked, but that was just for an hour and it started again.

I’ve been in Venice ones before when I was a kid but I dined remembered anything from that time. As the first impression Venice is quiet a mellow city, nice to just walk around for hours in this chilled atmosphere with the absence of cars. I don’t now if I am an evil person or not, but for me the funniest thing so far on the trip was when the high tide flood into the streets and into the

 Dr. crimp 7A+


restaurants and shops where the owners got quiet busy. At our hotel we had to eat breakfast at our room because the restaurant was filled with water or as the receptionist said: I’m sorry its water in the restaurant, or more correctly the restaurant is under water. I will recommend a trip to Venice to all but don’t forget your high fishing rubber boots.

On our way back to Tecino we drove by Milan to find a climbing shop. Quiet a hectic drive in the center but we survived.

9/12

Fourth day on, felt early that this was a day for just go around and do easy stuff. It went out to be quiet a nice day with a lot of nice boulders and 17 new ticks in the book.

6,7 and 8 December.

Climbed in chironico, not that many possible boulders climbed some nice 7s like globetrotter, autopilot, le flipper and doctor crimp. Tried a project at phaese, easy climbing up to a catch from an awkward position to the lip, made it to the lip but couldn’t hold the swing, next time. Did an “8a+” called doctor pinch in 3 try, should had flashed it. The hardest part was to top out in the snow since there was ice on the holds. I think the right grade is around 7c+ for this one. Fold of the top of two 8a´s called souvenir and le vent nous portera. Souvenir is direction elimination but it has quit cool moves, its big holds and compression style. Its possible to do it as an direct boulder (7B) to, where you use a very sharp two finger pocket, but instead you climb leftwards on a huge “rib”

I certainly feel that the shape isn’t the same after the long break of, but it is a good chance to do a lot of the easier problems that I wouldn’t have done if I were in shape and in project mode. Really psyched to start train hard again and come back fitter in the start of the spring.

Friday 5/12

Rest day and snowing, out brushing snow of boulders again.

Thursday 4/12

Ottar wasn’t in the best shape today so it was a reduced team that went to brione. First shoot was Ganymede takeover 8a+, a problem I tried briefly last year and was quiet close to send in a short session. When we arrived to this river block everything was looking strange, the ground was like a meter lower than last time, and to do a problem like pampelmusse you had to do 3 moves to come into the standard sit start.

The crux move on Ganymede felt much harder this time and I couldn't stick it. Probably not that aggressive in the crimp after a long time of, but hopefully it will feel better after some weeks crimping down her. Stopped when it still was some skin left and went up the hill to take a look at vecchia leone 8b. Haven’t tried it before and after getting spanked on Ganymede I didn't accept much of success on this one. The holds above the pinch was filled with ice and I was quiet surprised that I in short time did all the moves up to this point. The problem felt very doable and since it is one of the best lines in Tecino I looking forewords to work on this one when the whole line is dry.

Wednesday 3/12

Today’s choice was cresciano, and hopefully jungle book was dried after the brushing last day. We started up at the la pelle bloc. First I tried la pioche, the plan was to try to flash but I couldn't get the toe hook so it took several tries before the send. Went then to la pelle direct 8a+ that is one of the great classics in cresciano. Its start with some fingery foot technical moves who leads up to a long of balance catch from crimpers to the lip. I managed the catch witch is the crux in a coupled of tries and it felt like a quiet safe move for me. Did the rest of the moves but had problems with the toe hook in the start moves. Need to tune this sequence a bit if a send could be possible. We then went to jungle book but it was still wet. After some hours of just looking around for dry boulders we went back to la pelle. With no warm up I stocked the catch again, but my hand went numb and it field like someone had tried to pull it of, so I stopped and called it a day. Looking forward to try this problem again.

2/12

Woke up early and was psyched. The rest of the team was sleeping and after a half hour I thought it was time for climbing so I turned the volume of System of a doom to the max. It was quiet effective but there was someone other in the house that thought it wanes the best way to wake up. Maybe more chilled music next time? After breakfast we went to chironico, but the boulders was covered with snow and soaking wet. We brushed the snow of some the tops of komilator and willenberg dach and some easier ones so it hopefully will dry quick.

We then went down the valley to cresciano, but the situation was the same her. We removed snow from la pelle and jungle book. After looking around we found a boulder called XP graded 7C that wasn't that wet so we dried the holds with a towel. Steffen quickly sent it and I fold of the wet 5+ top out on the flash, was quiet pissed with this and sent it easily second go.

Monday 1/12

Rain. I was quiet tired after the weekend so I probably needed the rest.

Sunday 30/11

After a couple of hours of sleep after the Nordic challenge party it was time to leave. The train to gardemoen was going to early and I was to tiered. The big snowball war in the middle of the night had teared me down and my leg was hurting so much that I nearly could walk, but it had been great fun! Felt like I went thru the day like a zombie. First I nearly missed the train then I managed to send the passport with the luggage. In Milan my backpack was missing so the only thing I had were my pad and the clothes I was wearing. The drive up to bellinazona went quiet fast and we could pick up the last member of the team Magne before he had too much quality time in a pub. We are staying in the same apartment as I stayed at in February. Nearly feel like at home her.

The crew has changed from last time, but with a team of Steffen, Ottar and Magne it will be a lot of fun.



HARD TIMES
18/11-08

I have been stocked in my sofa for 9 days now, can´t get rid of the flu. After the first days I had finished my movie mental terror and read two books. But since my body still was in sofa mode I had to find something new to do that I could accomplish from my sofa to prevent my self from starting to walk on the walls.

That´s how I started to play with a web creator and after some days I decided to go serious and publish my own web site.

My climbing life has been a total mess the last 5 months. In the end of jun I went to rocklands stronger than I ever been and was looking forward to seven weeks of the best bouldering and many hard ticks. The first day we arrived just before the dark, so i went straight on an 8a+ and I nearly stocked the last hard move on the flash go. I made it 3 goes later when it already was dark. The next week I accomplished several other 8a´s and 8a+´s in some tries and with good flash goes. It was a perfect start and I was looking forward to try some harder lines and hopefully manage to flash an 8-grade problem. Then it started to rain like hell, in four days it rained more then the normal annual and if it had continued probably all rocklands would have been flushed into the sea. After a week of shit weather the sun was shining again and rocklands showed us why it is one of the best bouldering spots in the world, but one week of shit weather had destroyed my body and fever was going high. For the rest of the time I was just hanging around with the others and every time I felt a bit better and tried to climb I got fever feelings. In the end all my motivation for climbing had left and I decided to take a break. Because I had been super psyched since I started climbing I thought it was just a one-week phenomena but it wasn´t until recently my psyche to go climbing arrived.

New blog!

 To sure og en sint   8A

Matre

I håp om at det skal bli lettere å få oppdatert jevnlig skal eg teste dette formatet, siden eg var avhengig av min egen maskin for å få oppdatert bloggen tidligere gjorde det at jeg ikke fikk oppdatert når eg var på tur men håper at dette skal bli annerledes nå!