torsdag 7. januar 2010

Los Angeles

hanging around in LA at the moment, waithing for Torstein to come down from Bishop so we we can go bouldering. the plan was to go directly to bishop, but we was invited by randy puro and friends to stay a weekend in yosemite. I don't now that much about the bouldering up there but it host some really famous classics like midnight lightning V8, thriller V10 and dominated V13. so probably going to try these ones. Really keen on dominated since its a early Jerry Moffat classic. 8B might be a bit hard for a weekend but il give it a try! After that its of to bishop and Mandala! But first of to santa monica beach and try to get rescued by pamela!

søndag 3. januar 2010

Swiss trip fall 09 part 2

 Øystein in brione

After some time in Magic Steffen arrived with his new car and was ready for some action. He quickly made his way thru right hand of darkness and octopussy 8A, and showed that his skills are still developing. Been on several trips with him the last two years and the development from being a 7b bouldrer to now doing 8s have goon quite fast. After a total of two weeks in magic the snow was coming and we went back to areas in lower altitude. The plan was going to brione and stay there for some time, I was really keen on coming back for ganyemede and both me and kuutti was eager on a new date with amber. On the way to brione we stooped at Andreas and Jannes place who had returned from Fontainebleau. After a warm shower and starting to get some heat in ours frozen bodies we decided to sleep over there for a night before we was heading up for the tent life in brione. In the end we wasn’t able to leave the comfort and stayed in the apartment for the rest of the trip. Since the apartment was quiet close to chironico compared to brione the climbing plan changed a bit, but chironico with its density of hard nice problems surrounded with a lot of easier nice warm ups makes it one of my favourite spot, so the adjusting in plans wasn’t that big a problem;-).

Kuutti in Chironico

We still had some day trips up to brione so I had my chance to finish up ganyemede. Luckily I did it the last day before me and Steffen jumped in to the car heading home for Norway.



Ganymede takeover 8A+
This problem was originally rated 8B+ but with a new sequence it went down to 8B but at the moment it seems like it settled at 8A+, in my opinion it is defiantly the hardest 8a+ vie done in Swiss but I still think 8a+ is right. It’s a problem that suite light people because of the tiny crimps so I am really happy to have sent this one.

Pøbler 8A
A really cool roof problem where the start move is the crux, followed by some easier moves before a hard dead point move from a two finger crimp and then some easier crimping to the top.

Marilyn Monroe 8A
Weird compression boulder at vertical flat features. One of the last move is the crux, felt impossible until I suddenly was at the top confused over that I had done the crux for the first time on my first try from the start.

Side effect 7C+
Cool steep problem put up by Nalle one year ago. Long moves on a bit to sharp edges (skin killer, more easy 7C+ than 8A)

Forger 7C+
Maby the most classic line in brione, in my opinion it looks much better than it climbs (a bit juggy) with its beautiful orange/red colours. Fell of the top a couple of time 2 years ago,  first try this year. I don’t think this is an 8A as a lot of people put it as.

The black arête 7C
Nice beach block with river polished cool holds, the first couple of meters of the boulder are the deal but the high finish with fall potential in to the river makes your heart beating.


Tricky 8A
The name says it all, tricky funky 360 toe hook madness. Like a circus.

Komilator 7C+
Nice, but a bit contrived crimpy line put up by mr Nicole himself back in the days, cool moves with a crucial heel hook. Felt really easy for me, more like 7c but with the rest of the group sending it fast as well agreed on 7c+. To me it feels kind of strange that everyone else agree with the guide book and grades this one 8A(or maybe its only me that has misunderstood the grading system and sandbags heavily back in Bergen)

Le vent nous porterá 7C+
Cool moves but kind of low ball, 8A in guide as well

Fatboy 7C+
Cool pumpy problem put up by Torstein, kind of cool to climb on classic abroad that is put up by Norwegian fellows.

Ping pong boulder 7C
Painful one finger crimp but rest is cool

That’s go left 7C
Hi hi 8A! Never!

Magic wood:

Right hand of darkness 8A
Steep roof problem on crimps. Starts on a jug, than a long move to a two finger crimp for your right hand, than a left heel hook and into a two finger pocket with your left hand and than a easier dynamic move with your right into a jug, than 7Aish crimping to the top. On this problem I found out that I sucks on pockets. I wasn’t able to pull at all on this two-finger pocket and had to change beta right away, the other ones thought this was one of the easier moves and thought that if you was able to get the fingers into the pocket the problem was done. I ended up with a really hard lock off move to a small crimp 30 cm further out than the pocket and had to do the next move to the jug static otherwise I would dab. In all I felt this problem with my silly method was solid and I now for sure that the two finger open hand strength has to be trained.

Octopussy 8A
Nice athletic moves in steep terrain

UG 2 8A 
A river polished classic, soft

Du côté de Seshuan 7C+

Steep compression problem with a now hands rest at the end before you have to do a massive jump to top it out

Supernova 7C
Steep compression problem, all about the wetness!


All in all quite happy with this trip, first trip for a long time without being injured or sick.

Was quite unsure about the shape before the trip since I haven’t climbed that much this year, and mainly doing hang boarding because of the accident in the start of the year and a lot of offshore jobs. So the fingers was defiantly in form and made me do some of my projects. But imp a bit annoyed that I often did silly mistakes that made me fall of when I wasn’t supposed to. All in all I actually had 9 days in total on ganyemede takeover and left hand of darkness after I really should have done them. Could have used these days instead on other project an the fact that I didn’t sent left hand really piss me, since I in the end had several falls past the last crux on easy 5+ climbing. Somehow it felt like the mental wasn’t on the top, but the fact that I did 4 of my projects the last week and was able to do ganyemede on the last chance last day proves (I hope at least so) that I in the end was able to put my mind together.

Its kind a nice as well to explore things that your not that good at so you now what to train more on in the future.

In the end I want to say that imp really pleased to get to know new friends on trips, like the Finnish one that imp already planning new trips with for the next year.

fredag 1. januar 2010

Swiss trip fall 09

Ganymede takeover 8A+

This fall I was on a trip to the tecino region in Switzerland with a lot of good friends. Started the trip in Magic wood where I joined Andreas, Janne, Øystein and the finish crew with Kuuti, Roosa and Jarkko.  The first day started of with rain so we moved on to brione with Andrew, Adam and Max in hope of better weather. The first day we went for the frogger block and tried the dry parts of fake pamplemousse 8A and Ganymede takeover hard 8A+. Ganymede felt well so went over next day to see if it was dry and give it a try.  This problem is 70 degrees steep on sharp small crimps, so sharp that you cant have more than a couple of tries a day if you don’t want to destroy your skin. In the third try I climbed through the crux and was ready for the last move that is kind of an all of celebrations jump to a jug as seen below.

This is actually not that hard move, but I some hove managed to fall of because I got so surprised of the extra speed I got when the heel went out so I hit the hold 10 cm to the right where it is just a slooper. So instead of sweet success I ended the flight a couple of metres away in between some rocks far away from the pads totally pissed. Luckily I didn’t injure anything. The next days I was falling of the move to where you do the jump move from every try, quite frustrating! In between the tries on Ganymede I did some others nice problem like frogger, pøbler (nice 8A put up by Torstein Eide left of vecchia leone), the black arêtes and the two nice classic arêtes in the meadow.

 Classic 6B+ Brione

After some days I went back to Magic woods with the Finnish crew in hope of good conditions. Magic started good with quick repeats of right hand of darkness and UG2 before a frustrating fight with left hand of darkness 8A+ started. This problem is in a big roof and climbs out to the sun on small crimps; it shares the start crux with right hand but then follows a more direct line in the centre of the roof through a second crux before an easy top out. The same day as I did right hand I managed to give it a last good try when I was completely wasted and fighted me thru all the way to the top out but was a bit unfocused for a moment and the foot slipped of and I was at the ground again. was actually not that mad then because it was a rally good try and i felt the problem would go easily next day. But the next days i was making stupied mistakes on evry try, putting the heel wrong, wrong body position and actually falling of the easy top out because of silly mistake some more days. Fuck!!