tirsdag 9. februar 2010


When we went to bishop i had only one boulder in mind, The Mandala! A classic v12 put up by sharma in spring 2000. When i was in the buttermilks 4 years ago i had a look at it but it was so proud that I was to scared to try. But this time i went straight to work after a short warm up. First i tried the "new" beta who is the most common these days. But the first move mademe struggel. In the end i tried chris old beta and it worked straight away.I then tried the upper moves but find me struggel on the move up right after the match, thought i was just tierd and called it a day. The next day i felt tierd but still managed a quik send of the mystery v12, felt not that hard so i think v11 would make more sense.
Afterthe rest day with a nice evening in one of the hot springs around bishop i felt ready for mandala. Late in the evening after a nice warm up an a flash of the chekerboard v8,(more v6 i think)but still one of the most classic Lines around. With half an hour of light left and prime friction i went to work. Made it thru the crux straight away but failed on the move up right. After 3 similar atemps and the dark coming i found out that i would just try that single move a couple of times before we went home.a bad idea! In completly darkness with just light from two small head torches i grabbed the hold for the first time but the left hand popped but i still managed to hold the swing out but on the way in I couldn't hold on further an i landed 3,5 meter further down straight on the right shoulder! FUCK!! I lost my breath for quite along time and felt like throving up. So that was the end of mandala and bishop for me, but torstein made his way up herounbefore we went to texas so at least t
one in the crew was happy.

onsdag 3. februar 2010


A while since i have been updating from the USA trip, mostly because i injured my shoulder after a bad fall from the top of mandala in bishop.
But first thing first. When we drove up to yosemite we was super syked as we had two houres of daylight before it got dark, but as we stepd out of the car it started to rain. Shit! In the end the stay went without that much action since there was raining every evening so the boulders was wet or at best moist. But the locals shown us a lot of great problems so its a lot of things to come back for. Did try the dominated ond day an was quite close to do the crux move static with the heel beta Even if the conditions was rather moist on the holds. So im keen to try this NeXT time. Even if the weather wasn't the best we had a Nice stay in beth roddens house, probably the best house in the walley with a proper home gym (better than most of the gyms in Bergen at least!). Thanks randy,beth, Paul, lynn and scott for a Nice stay and great guiding!